Page 19 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

18 Space of taste Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17
Bairrada. VR: Beira Atlãntico. DOC: Bairrada.
A region to the west of the Dão Valley on the Atlantic side.
With clay and limestone soil, partially sand, the main variety
of the region — Baga — is often used to make monovarietal
wines, a rare find in Portugal.
Bairrada winemaking was made famous in 1137 by the first
King of Portugal, Alfonso I, when he ordered to plant
vineyards along the public road and give part of the wine away
to the people. Locals wines were also very popular in Brazil
in colonial times. Local sparkling wines have also become
DOC Bairrada popular in recent years. Adega de Cantanhede presents
a wide range of wines of various styles.
Beira Interior. VR: Terras da Beira. DOC: Beira Interior.
This central region of Portugal on the border with Spain has
been a winemaking center since Roman times. It is the region
of Medieval fortress cities and ancient villas. Winemaking used
to be such a crucial part of the local economy that in the 15th
century, people attempted to introduce the first legal
regulations to help protect production.
Its climate is continental, with hot summers and colder
and longer winters compared to the Atlantic coast. Local red
wines from the Bastardo, Marufo, Rufete, Tinta Roriz and
DOC Beira Interioir Touriga Nacional varieties show excellent aging potential.
Local producers Carlos Almeida Gama, Cobelcos and Horta
de Gonçalparesare most deserving of mention.
Lisboa. VR: Lisboa. DOC: Encostas de Aire, Óbidos,
Alenquer, Arruda, Torres Vedras, Lourinhã, Bucelas,
Carcavelos, Colares.
Since ancient times, the capital region has been the center
of the country's winemaking culture. The climate here
is determined by its close proximity to the Atlantic. This region
has more subregional wine traditions protected by DOC than
anywhere else. Wines of the Bucelas subregion are well
known outside Portugal. In England, local white wines
became popular in the 16th century. A number of top wineries
of the region are located in the subregion of DOC Alenquer.
DOC Lisboa DFJ Vinho is of particular note, in part for its charity and
education projects. Bacalhôa, Adega Azueira, Encosta
da Vila, Jose Repolho and Quinta da Casaboa also
deserve mention
Tejo. VR: Tejo. DOC: do Tejo
The Tejo River Valley in central Portugal is one of the country's
oldest wine regions. Time seems to move slower here, with
a marvelous atmosphere formed by numerous vineyards, olive
groves, Medieval villages on hilltops, Roman-era ruins
and ancient monasteries.
The terroir is characterized by limestone and clayish soil types.
In the northern part of the region, soil contains shale deposits
encouraging deep rooting. Noteworthy producers: Quinta
DOC Tejo
da Ribeirinha, Quinta da Lapa, Quinta da Alorna.
Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions 19
Península de Setubal. VR: Península de Setubal. DOC: Palmela,
Setubal (same borders, different types of wine).
Legend has it that the history of Setubal Peninsula winemaking
dates back as far as Phoenician times, 600 BC. It is the birthplace
of famous muscatels and also a region of noteworthy red wines.
This issue of Code de Vino has two articles on wines from this
region. The following producers deserve your attention: José Maria
da Fonseca, Adega Cooperativa de Palmela (a cooperative
of 300 small wineries), Adega Camolas, Malo Tojo, Quinta
do Piloto, Xavier Santana.
Alentejo. VR: Alentejano. DOC: Alentejo. VR Península de Setubal
A vast region in southern Portugal where cork oaks grow. Soils
here vary widely in type, including shale, pink marble, granite, and
limestone often found on a sublayer of clay to help retain water.
Local winemaking culture combines conservative traditions, such
as wine aging in clay amphoras, with a considerable number of
innovations. Red international grape varieties of the VR Alentejano
category are quite popular here. Among white wines, we should
mention Antão Vaz, which provides good acidity and fruity notes.
Leading producers in the region: João Portugal Ramos, Casa
Relvas, Paço do Conde, Altas Quintas, Wines by Ncampelo,
HMR, Coelheiros, Herdade de Malhadinha Nova.
Algarve. VR: Algarve. DOC: Lagos, Portimao, Lagoa, Tavira.
DOC Alentejo
With a mild and sunny Mediterranean climate in the most southern
continental region of Portugal, Algarve is a stunning place not only
for tourism, but also vineyards. The region stretches 20–30 km
to the north from the coast where it borders Alentejo. It features
various types of soil, including sandy, clay and limestone, with rare
spots of shale on the mountain slopes in the north. Castelão and
Negra Mole are the main red grape varieties. English singer Cliff
Richard, who owns Vida Nova vineyards, is the winemaking
ambassador of the region. Other producers include Quinta
do Barranco Longo, Paxá and Quinta dos Vales.
Madeira Island. VR: Terras Madeirenses. DOC: Madeira,
Madeirense (same borders, different types of wine).
Madeira is an Atlantic archipelago and technically a part of the
African zone. Madeira is world-famous for its white fortified wine, DOC Madeira
which is the topic of its own separate article in this issue of Code
de Vino. The Henrique&Henriques, Blandy's, Sogrape Vinhos,
D'Oliveira, Barbeito and Justino's local winemakers stand
out the most.
The Azores (Açores). VR: Açores. DOC: Graciosa, Biscoitos,
Pico (various islands in the archipelago).
The unique terroir of this Atlantic archipelago is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. The archipelago is located far out in the sea,
approximately one-third of the way from Lisbon to New York.
Its volcanic soil and location determine the terroir's special
character. The volcanic rock where the vines grow serves as
protection from the wind and also keeps them warm at night.
Wines from this archipelago are a true rarity. The most notable
local producer is Azores Wine Company, who make an excellent
DOC Açores
red Tinto Vulcanico.