Page 14 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

12 Wine Club Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17 Rui Cunha of Secret Spot Wines: "Winemaking is like painting" 13
— You sound very poetic when you speak about your — If we could continue the comparison with painting, let's say that
best wines, and it looks like you really enjoy your work! you paint your wines rather than just make them. Then what kind
If we try to detail, which special aspects of your work of style do you prefer? Or do you just follow the nature?
make you feel fulfilled and happy? What do you enjoy
the most in the process? — Another very interesting question! I try to paint coherent wines.
If you could describe my philosophy in the art of winemaking it would
— Yes, you’re 100% right! I love my work. Sometimes be that "simple" word. No matter the number of colors, their intensity,
too much… so I can't find any time for surfing. the complexity of the process… at the end the painting has to be coherent.
Creating… that is the part I love most. Sometimes you create Working with dry farmed vines as we do, you just follow the nature and I'm
for yourself (the different Secret Spot vintages), sometimes you very happy that it continues to stay like that. Some years nature is very fast
create new wines (Avesso Reserva oak fermented & aged) and and you have to run like crazy to keep up with her, like 2017. Another years,
sometimes you create for others (Avidagos Rosé Reserva). like 2016, nature is slowly and I have more time to enjoy the figs…
And creating in wine world has a very large and deep Even the ones that can control irrigation they are also following the nature,
meaning. Most of the people just think of the step of blending. because they are always responding to her. And irrigation is only one aspect.
For me that's just fine tuning. Creating means first thinking You've the sunshine hours, the winds, the temperatures, etc… it's a blessing
of the wine you want to bottle. Then be honest enough that we will never control the nature!
to yourself and sometimes say: "With this grape it's not
possible to do it right" or "It's a very good idea, the wine What I have to do, is of course, depending on the type of wine, permit
would for sure be different, but has the producer myself to follow more or less the nature. In other words: terroir driven wines
the capacity of marketing it?" like Crooked Vines, Secret Spot, Lacrau Old Vines is nature speaking.
For Lacrau Colheita we have to be in some years more interventionist
So as you see the creating step starts from a dream in the winemaking.
or a demand from the market. Then you look for grapes.
After that you'll check if the vinery needs different equipment
to ferment and age the wine. During all this process you meet
with graphic designers, sales rap's, bottle manufacturer's for,
together deciding the image and the launch of the wine. If you
want to do it right you have to decide when you present your Wine farms with which Rui Cunha cooperates as an oenologist and winemaker:
wine to the press. Finally, sometimes many years after
the "baby" is finally born!
Covela. "My first working experience. I started as Pala da Lebre (Cima Corgo subregion).
Another aspect I love is preparing with detail (that's my have
German side working) of vinification the different harvests assistant winemaker. Here I can write (which is quite Small family runned winery. Nice labels.
I have to control. This is very hard and is hours of trendy at the moment) "Since 1991", — said Rui Dry complex whites and reds.
“paperwork”. But then comes the best part: controlling Cunha. Focusing on organic vines & wines: Avesso,
the maturation of the grapes. I love to wake up early morning Arinto, Blends both oaked and unoaked and Quinta da Boavista (Cima Corgo). One of the
and see the sunrise in a vineyard. Walk through the different a dry 100% Touriga Nacional Rosé. Douro's flagship estates. Since 2013 it changed
terraces and taste the berries, evaluate the canopy, with the ownership from Sogrape to Lima & Smith (same
help of some meteorological apps try to predict the weather Casa da Lavandeira. Small project focusing owners of Covela and Tecedeiras). Since 2013
and then decide harvest time. And, if I see a nice fig tree, on whites: Avesso. producing dry reds for the first time. Iconic wines.
I've of course also to check the maturity and eat a couple!
Quinta de Paços. A typical Minho producer. Quinta das Tecedeiras (Cima Corgo). Small estate
— How do you think, is there any difference between From Alvarinhos, Loureiro, Arinto, etc… on the left bank of Douro river. One white, to reds
wine as business and wine as art, or is this difference Many different styles! and Ports (Tawny, LBV and Vintage).
not applicable to Portuguese wines?
Quinta da Massôrra. A family of winemakers that Casal de Valle Pradinhos (Macedo de Cavaleiros,
— Very interesting question! For me winemaking is like
painting. You decide on what you'll be painting, which colors lives and works full time at the farm. Besides fruits Trás-os-Montes subregion). Trás-os-Montes flagship
to use, how you'll mix them and of course what you'll be they produce Arinto and Tinta Roriz. winery. In the same family for over 100 years. The
Погреб шато Анжелюс
painting. You can have from simple one color canvas white is one of Portugal best known wine. The reds
(for example Pablo Picasso's Blue Period 1901–1904) Casa do Casal. Small producer. His highlight are of Bordeaux influence. One of the few wooden
to something much more colorful (for example Pablo Picasso's a 100% Espadal (province style colour, refreshing aged grappa’s produced in Portugal.
Girl Before a Mirror 1932). But like any good painter he not dry & crisp rose).
able to paint many canvas… In wine terms, produce many Faioura (Vidago). Also known for one of Portugal's
bottles of very good wines — this is my vision and how I work.
Quinta das Apegadas (Baixo Corgo subregion). premium natural sparkling waters, it’s a also home
But there's the other side of art aka winemaking. Look at pop A boutique winery, runned like a petit chateau of a joint venture of 3 producers. One white, one rose
art — you have a very famous artist Andy Warhol who with bordelaise. Dry whites and reds. and 2 reds.
simple lines and images created a movement. Very easy
to understand and still is easily recognized and enjoyed. Quinta dos Avidagos (Baixo Corgo subregion). Casal Cordeiro (Valpaços). One of Trás-os-Montes
More than 60 há of grapes. Large volume, consumer well known sub regions. Very nice whites and reds.
Coming back to wine. You have the more complex wines, friendly wines. Full of power and structure.
that deserve maybe decanting, a big glass, time for enjoying
and you have the easy drinking wines, ready to be enjoyed
at any moment.