Page 21 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

20 Space of taste Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17 Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions 21
Autochthonous grape varieties The range of varieties with their own vibrant individuality is sometimes with an appealing minerality. These wines are Baga. A late-ripening variety often used for light, tannic red
stunning, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Trincadeira, deliciously pure without oak aging, but Encruzado also reacts wines, which can be tart when young, but with age gain
Perhaps only Georgia can compete with Portugal in its range Aragonez, Baga, Castelão, Alvarinho, Arinto, Fernão Pires, well to fermentation or oak aging, producing serious, refined, complexity. In hotter years or with proper cultivation and the touch
of local grape varieties. The latter has over 250 identified and Encruzado and many others that make Portuguese wines so well-structured wines that can age and gain complexity of a skilled winegrower, Baga red wines can be rich and thick,
systematized autochthonous varieties! And this number continues special. The list of Portuguese varieties contains some quite over many years. with cherry and prune notes that develop in the bottle. Thanks
to grow thanks to new scientific research. This expansive palette exotic names, namely Esgana Cão (Dog Strangler), Amor-não- to aging, these wines can also reach milder but more complex
of varieties was introduced to Portugal in the course of its long me-deixes (Don't Leave Me, My Love), Carrega Burros (Donkey You will most likely run across this variety in the Dão region tones of herbs, malt, cedar and tobacco leaf. Baga is the main
and exciting winemaking history, with roots dating back to the Loader), Pe Comprido (Long Leg) and others. (DOC Dão) in northern Portugal in monovarietal wines or blends, variety of the Bairrada region (DOC Bairrada) to the south of Vinho
Bronze Age, according to archaeologists. The ancient Tartessians, which are among the most interesting wines Portugal has to offer. Verde, but also grows further to the east in the Beira Interior
Phoenicians, Celtiberians and Romans all left marks of their wine While the majority of global wine regions focus on Cabernet Even in the hottest weather conditions at vineyards, Encruzado (DOC Beira Interior) and Dão (DOC Dão) regions. It is also used
culture here. Sauvignon and Chardonnay, in Portugal, wine lovers have preserves its fresh acidity and fully ripens without becoming as a foundation in sparkling wine blends.
the chance to enjoy a genuinely impressive variety of tastes. overly sweet.
The ancient period was then followed by centuries of isolation Indigenous Portuguese grapes are a national treasure. Castelão. The most popular red variety of southern Portugal
when the peninsula was conquered by the Muslim Moors, thus They have been appreciated and enjoyed by many generations Red varieties is used for making elegant wines with a raspberry and fruity flavor
bringing an end to the further exchange of grape varieties with of Portuguese wine fans. Here is a modest list of the best which further develops into cedar and cigar box tones. Wines
other winemaking countries. Although the Moors introduced and most common varieties: Touriga Nacional. Arguably the most famous red grape variety from this variety suit anyone who likes the style of Italian Barbera
numerous new technologies in the country (including irrigation of Portugal. It is used to make full-bodied, deep-colored wines wines, ripe Cabernet Franc, or full-bodied Tempranillo from Rioja.
systems), winemaking was banned and many ancient vineyards White varieties with complex aromas and flavors reminiscent of violet, licorice, Castelão easily adapts to any climate and its outstanding
were left unattended. ripe blackcurrant and raspberry tones, as well as a delicate herbal versatility allows winemakers to use it for various signature wines,
Fernão Pires. Fernão Pires (or Maria Gomes) is used for making note of bergamot. This is a northern variety by origin used from easy-drinking red and rosé, to powerful and rich red wines
Some varieties grew on their own for decades, undergoing light, fruity, fragrant white wines with a taste similar to Muscat. frequently in Douro Valley for making Port wines, but now also intended for a long stay in cellars.
various changes and mutations. During the Reconquista when It is the most widespread white grape variety in Portugal grows all over Portugal. Wines from Touriga Nacional have
all new lands south of the Douro river were captured by and cultivated throughout the country, especially along the west excellent bottle-aging potential. The best Castelão grapes grow in the Palmela region on Setubal
Christians, it turned out that in many new grape varieties had coast, including the subregions of Setubal (DOC Setúbal), Peninsula south of Lisbon (DOC Palmela). This area is sometimes
appeared, some with common origins, while one and the same Teju (DOC do Teju) and Bairrada (DOC Bairrada). called Periquita, although José Maria da Fonseca is the legal
grape might look completely different in various regions. Even Italy owner of this name.
fails to surpass Portugal in the slight genetic differences Its citrus and floral aromas are freshest and most pronounced
in a single variety. when the grape is harvested early and the wine is drunk young. Tinta Roriz. This variety is also known as Aragonez and
This variety is also used for sparkling wines, and sometimes Tempranillo. It is an undisputed Iberian (Pyrenian) classic and
National varieties add a unique aroma and flavor to Portuguese can be harvested later to make sweet wines. an old local variety. The Tinta Roriz name is common in northern
wines, giving them a distinct character which helps them stand Portugal. It is a main grape for Port and Douro wines, and is also
out among similar wines produced in dozens of other countries Alvarinho. Alvarinho is used for making rich, mineral white wines important for the Dão region (DOC Dão). In Alentejo, it is called
all over the world. This diversity is now a topic of thorough with a strong character and predominant peach and citrus notes, Aragonez and is usually used in blends with Trincadeira.
scientific research, while in the past it was simply the foundation and sometimes tropical fruit and floral notes as well. This grape
of Portugal's unique wine culture. Therefore, Portuguese variety grows in abundance in the northern part of Vinho Verde Tinta Roriz is used to produce refined and elegant wines with
winemakers are focused on a search for the subtle nuances on the border with Spain. delicate and fine aromas of pepper, plum and blackberry with
of taste and flavor of their own grape varieties. strong tannins to ensure excellent aging potential. In good years,
Alvarinho wines have a denser body and higher alcohol content wines from this variety are very aromatic, full-bodied and deep-
than the majority of Vinho Verde wines and are often bottled as colored.
monovarietal wines (in which case the variety is specified on the
label). These wines are very delicious right after bottling, but have Touriga Franca. Winemakers like Touriga Franca because
aging potential as well. Winegrowers in other regions of Portugal it is resilient, easy to cultivate and produces steadily high yields.
acknowledge the quality of Alvarinho, and this variety is gradually Touriga Franca wines have a bright ruby red color, are full-bodied
spreading to the south (Setubal and Lisboa regions). and have delicate, yet rich floral aromas with blackberry notes.
Arinto. One of the oldest autochthonous varieties in Portugal, It is one of the five officially recommended varieties for making
Arinto is used to make elegant mineral white wines with Port wines, and is also used in dry wine blends in Douro.
predominant notes of apple and lemon. Arinto is the main grape Relatively recently, cultivation of this variety began in the Alentejo,
of the famous elegant wines of the DOC Bucelas subregion Tejo and Beira regions, and the regions near Lisbon. Despite its
in the Lisboa region. Arinto is a late-ripening variety, and is most strength as a variety for blending, it can also make excellent
well known for maintaining its pronounced freshness even in hot monovarietal wines appreciated by all who adore Malbec,
weather. It comes as no surprise that it grows in the majority Merlot blends, or milder variants of Zinfandel.
of the country's regions, especially such hot areas as Alentejo,
to balance the lack of acidity. Trincadeira. This is one of the most widely spread Portuguese
varieties, but best develops its qualities in hot, dry and very sunny
Arinto often adds fresh elegance to the blends of other white regions, which makes it perfect for Alentejo. It is quite difficult
grapes. It is also successfully cultivated in the chilly Vinho Verde to grow, as it produces irregular yields and is highly prone
region, where it is known as Padernã. Arinto wines age well to diseases. But in most years, Trincadeira wines are elegant with
in bottles, enriching their elegance and complexity. Its naturally pronounced raspberry, prune, blackberry jam, spice, pepper and
high acidity is also excellent for making sparkling wines. herbal flavors, a very fresh acidity and mild tannins. In the Douro
region, this grape is also known as Tinta Amarela. It is perfect
Encruzado. Encruzado is used to make elegant, well-balanced, Touriga Nacional for fans of Carignan, Grenache or Dolcetto wines.
Alvarinho full-bodied wines with delicate floral and citrus aromas,