Page 20 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

18 Space of taste Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17 Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions 19
Bairrada. VR: Beira Atlãntico. DOC: Bairrada. Península de Setubal. VR: Península de Setubal. DOC: Palmela,
Setubal (same borders, different types of wine).
A region to the west of the Dão Valley on the Atlantic side.
With clay and limestone soil, partially sand, the main variety Legend has it that the history of Setubal Peninsula winemaking
of the region — Baga — is often used to make monovarietal dates back as far as Phoenician times, 600 BC. It is the birthplace
wines, a rare find in Portugal. of famous muscatels and also a region of noteworthy red wines.
This issue of Code de Vino has two articles on wines from this
Bairrada winemaking was made famous in 1137 by the first region. The following producers deserve your attention: José Maria
King of Portugal, Alfonso I, when he ordered to plant da Fonseca, Adega Cooperativa de Palmela (a cooperative
vineyards along the public road and give part of the wine away of 300 small wineries), Adega Camolas, Malo Tojo, Quinta
do Piloto, Xavier Santana.
to the people. Locals wines were also very popular in Brazil
in colonial times. Local sparkling wines have also become
DOC Bairrada popular in recent years. Adega de Cantanhede presents Alentejo. VR: Alentejano. DOC: Alentejo. VR Península de Setubal
a wide range of wines of various styles.
A vast region in southern Portugal where cork oaks grow. Soils
here vary widely in type, including shale, pink marble, granite, and
Beira Interior. VR: Terras da Beira. DOC: Beira Interior.
limestone often found on a sublayer of clay to help retain water.
This central region of Portugal on the border with Spain has Local winemaking culture combines conservative traditions, such
been a winemaking center since Roman times. It is the region as wine aging in clay amphoras, with a considerable number of
of Medieval fortress cities and ancient villas. Winemaking used innovations. Red international grape varieties of the VR Alentejano
to be such a crucial part of the local economy that in the 15th category are quite popular here. Among white wines, we should
century, people attempted to introduce the first legal mention Antão Vaz, which provides good acidity and fruity notes.
regulations to help protect production. Leading producers in the region: João Portugal Ramos, Casa
Relvas, Paço do Conde, Altas Quintas, Wines by Ncampelo,
Its climate is continental, with hot summers and colder HMR, Coelheiros, Herdade de Malhadinha Nova.
and longer winters compared to the Atlantic coast. Local red
wines from the Bastardo, Marufo, Rufete, Tinta Roriz and Algarve. VR: Algarve. DOC: Lagos, Portimao, Lagoa, Tavira.
DOC Beira Interioir Touriga Nacional varieties show excellent aging potential. DOC Alentejo
Local producers Carlos Almeida Gama, Cobelcos and Horta With a mild and sunny Mediterranean climate in the most southern
de Gonçalparesare most deserving of mention. continental region of Portugal, Algarve is a stunning place not only
for tourism, but also vineyards. The region stretches 20–30 km
Lisboa. VR: Lisboa. DOC: Encostas de Aire, Óbidos, to the north from the coast where it borders Alentejo. It features
Alenquer, Arruda, Torres Vedras, Lourinhã, Bucelas, various types of soil, including sandy, clay and limestone, with rare
Carcavelos, Colares. spots of shale on the mountain slopes in the north. Castelão and
Negra Mole are the main red grape varieties. English singer Cliff
Since ancient times, the capital region has been the center Richard, who owns Vida Nova vineyards, is the winemaking
of the country's winemaking culture. The climate here ambassador of the region. Other producers include Quinta
is determined by its close proximity to the Atlantic. This region do Barranco Longo, Paxá and Quinta dos Vales.
has more subregional wine traditions protected by DOC than
anywhere else. Wines of the Bucelas subregion are well Madeira Island. VR: Terras Madeirenses. DOC: Madeira,
known outside Portugal. In England, local white wines Madeirense (same borders, different types of wine).
became popular in the 16th century. A number of top wineries
of the region are located in the subregion of DOC Alenquer. Madeira is an Atlantic archipelago and technically a part of the
DOC Lisboa DFJ Vinho is of particular note, in part for its charity and African zone. Madeira is world-famous for its white fortified wine, DOC Madeira
which is the topic of its own separate article in this issue of Code
education projects. Bacalhôa, Adega Azueira, Encosta de Vino. The Henrique&Henriques, Blandy's, Sogrape Vinhos,
da Vila, Jose Repolho and Quinta da Casaboa also
D'Oliveira, Barbeito and Justino's local winemakers stand
deserve mention
out the most.
Tejo. VR: Tejo. DOC: do Tejo
The Azores (Açores). VR: Açores. DOC: Graciosa, Biscoitos,
Pico (various islands in the archipelago).
The Tejo River Valley in central Portugal is one of the country's
oldest wine regions. Time seems to move slower here, with The unique terroir of this Atlantic archipelago is a UNESCO World
a marvelous atmosphere formed by numerous vineyards, olive Heritage Site. The archipelago is located far out in the sea,
groves, Medieval villages on hilltops, Roman-era ruins approximately one-third of the way from Lisbon to New York.
and ancient monasteries. Its volcanic soil and location determine the terroir's special
character. The volcanic rock where the vines grow serves as
The terroir is characterized by limestone and clayish soil types. protection from the wind and also keeps them warm at night.
In the northern part of the region, soil contains shale deposits Wines from this archipelago are a true rarity. The most notable
encouraging deep rooting. Noteworthy producers: Quinta local producer is Azores Wine Company, who make an excellent
DOC Tejo DOC Açores
da Ribeirinha, Quinta da Lapa, Quinta da Alorna. red Tinto Vulcanico.