Page 18 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

16 Space of taste Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17 Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions 17
Wine classifications Now let's turn to the wine regions of Portugal and their DOC and
VR subregions.
Portuguese winemakers were the first in Europe
to consider the issues of wine quality standardization Vinho Verde. Vinho Regional (VR): Minho. DOC: Vinho Verde.
and the demarcation of areas where wines of a
specified region of origin are produced. In 1756, Douro This region is considered the birthplace of fresh white wines, but it
Valley, home of the famous Port wines, became the also produces red ones that are no less worthy. The leading
world's first demarcated wine region with a specified manufacturers of the region include Vercoope, Guapos, Caves de
border and production technology. Montanha, Quinta de Curvos, Quintas do Homem and Casal de
Ventosela. The amazing winery João Portugal Ramos also calls
Today, Douro Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site this area home.
recognizing the long winemaking history of the region
and the outstanding natural beauty of its landscapes. Trás-os-Montes. VR: Transmontano. DOC: Trás-os-Montes.
In the late 20th century, Douro Valley and other regions A mountainous region to the west of Vinho Verde. Its granite and
were reorganized with support from the World Bank, limestone soil create striking white wines from such rare varieties
and a new appellation system was introduced for as Côdega de Larinho and Síria. Noteworthy producers: Quinta DOC Vinho Verde
regional and high-quality wines. de Sobreíro, Valle Pradinhos, Quinta de Arcossó.
Portuguese wines are certified in three categories:
• DOC (or DOP)
• Vinho Regional (IG, IGP, VR)
• Vinho

DOC (DOP) is the "noblest" of the wine categories.
Two terms are currently used: traditional local DOC
(Denominacao de Origem Controlada — Controlled
Designation of Origin) and new DOP (Denominacao
de Origem Protegida — Protected Designation
of Origin), both of which are equal.
Each of the 31 DOC regions have strictly defined
geographical borders. DOC standards regulate the
maximum yield, recommended and approved varieties,
and other parameters. All DOC wines are officially DOC Porto e Douro
tasted by authorizing commissions to ensure
consumers get a product of guaranteed quality.
Dão e Lafões. VR: Terras do Dão. DOC: Lafões, Dão.
Vinho Regional (IG, IGP, VR). Traditionally, this
category was called VR (Vinho Regional — Regional The Dão Valley is a unique terroir surrounded by mountains.
Wines), but modern EU standards have now also DOC Trás-os-Montes Grapes here ripen slowly and uniformly, and the wines have
introduced the name IG (Indicação Geográfica — a good acidity and elegant aromatics. It features poor
Geographical Indication) or IGP granite soil, and the region was severely damaged
(Indicação Geográfica Protegida — Protected by the 2017 fires, where forest farms were most seriously
Geographical Indication). In the majority of Portuguese Regions Porto e Douro. VR: Duriense. DOC: Douro, Porto. affected. Leading producers in the region: Boas Quintas,
regions, the old VR name is still used today, but these A legendary region in the Port wine world. Trying to sum up this Quinta do Covão, Soito Wines, Magnum. The mountainous
categories are nonetheless equivalent. Winemaking traditions span the entire country, from the hilly region of Vinho area in a few words is like boiling down War And Peace to the Lafões is a miniature version of Vinho Verde. White wines,
Verde in the north, to the resort region of Algarve in the south, where same length. This issue of Code de Vino features an entire which are best when they are young, prevail here.
Portugal is divided into 14 regional wine areas. Vinho vineyards were planted 4,000 years ago. Each of these regions has plenty separate article on this region and its famous wines. The only fact
Regional production rules are a bit laxer than DOC. of local varieties that make up their special national wine culture legacy. we'll mention here is that the region is globally acknowledged
The VR category includes numerous prestigious and today as the birthplace of excellent dry wines. Noteworthy
excellent Portuguese wines. The main reason is that Unique winemaking traditions can also be found on the archipelago producers in this respect: Secret Spot Wines, Symington, Quinta
producers sometimes opt to use varieties (mostly of Madeira and the Azores. For example, in the Azores, grapes are grown do Portal, Quevedo, Quinta da Sequeira, Dona Matilde, Quinta
international) not permitted for the DOC category, in stone beds carved in rock. The roots of vines take hold in the stony soil, da Pacheca, Quinta de Curvos, Quinta do Cume, Quinta do
or use them in different proportions and combinations. while the low stone walls create a natural windshield. Vineyards in the Infantado.
Looser standards give winemakers more space for Azores have been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO together
creativity, although VR wines must meet certain with the Douro Valley terroir, where the world-famous Port wines are made. Távora e Varosa. VR: Terras de Cister. DOC: Tavora-Varosa.
criteria regarding grape varieties, minimum alcohol
content, etc. Every region excels in what makes it special and the varieties it uses, so A small mountainous region bordering Douro Valley to the north
it is hard to pick just one. But if we must choose the most significant and and the Dão region to the south. Great material for sparkling
Vinho is the category for the simplest table wines typical regions of Portugal, we cannot ignore Vinho Verde, Porto and wines grows in its granite and limestone soil with a continental
of Portugal, not restricted by the quality rules regulating Douro, the Dão river valley, Lisboa region, Setúbal Peninsula, Alentejo with climate known for its extreme temperature variations. This region
senior categories. This category is often favored by its wide open spaces, and Madeira Island. In this issue of Code de Vino, was the first in Portugal to be certified for the production
winemakers who work outside the official rules and we tell the story of each of these regions, be it about a special local of sparkling wines. The best producers of such wines: DOC Dão e Lafões
deliberately classify their product as table wine. technology, or a producer whose work we found especially captivating. Murganheira, Raposeira.