Page 23 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018

22 Space of taste Code de Vino #17 Code de Vino #17 Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions 23

The art of blending Traditional blends by region
We have been focusing entirely on individual Portuguese With such a huge range of available options, there is no issue Vinho Verde Loureiro and Trajadura are a classic
varieties, but the winemaking tradition of Portugal is in fact finding a Portugal wine for any day or holiday, or to slowly sip combination of two white varieties, where the
based mostly on a combination of varieties rather than the on its own or accompany any dish, from appetizers to desserts. structure and crispiness of Loureiro are softened by
production of monovarietal wines. With few exceptions, the There are many examples of successful combinations, including more delicate notes of Trajadura. An excellent wine
strength of Portuguese wines lies in the art of making a final the Arinto/Fernão Pires blend in the white wine category, which for serving with light appetizers or as an aperitif.
blend from two, three, four and sometimes dozens of different is now a classic in such regions as Bairrada, Beira, Lisbon
varieties. Wines from these grapes are unique, unlike the global and Tejo. Douro Valley. Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and
mainstream trend of producing standard fruity wines from Touriga Nacional combine well in the Douro Valley.
"international" grape varieties of French origin. We should also mention the combination of Trincadeira/Aragonez Touriga Franca adds rich, refined aromas, Tinta Roriz
typical for Alentejo. The first variety adds a depth of color, floral (Aragonez in Alentejo) gives the wine an aromatic
In some regions, winemakers can blend up to twenty different notes and a high aging potential, while Aragonez contributes structure and strength, while Touriga Nacional makes
varieties to reach the needed balance. Some varieties add red fruity flavors, notes of spice and an elegant finish. it more defined, suitable for different occasions and
delicate fruity flavors, while others imbue the wine with ripe adds floral notes that go well with the wild red fruit
notes, accentuate freshness, and add more body and We can also mention another reputable blend typical for Douro: flavors of the other two grapes.
roundness to the aftertaste. Thus, the unique Portuguese Touriga Nacional (for floral violet notes, good balance and aging
style is formed, where the whole is bigger and better than potential) and Touriga Franca (full of color, fruity flavors and well- Bairrada (DOC Bairrada). Sercial and Bical are two
the sum of its individual components. pronounced tannins). Wines from this blend are full-bodied but white varieties often used in quiet and sparkling white
elegant, such as the famous Barca Velha and other premium wines wines. Sercial is known for its delicate aromas and
This tradition has since seen its fair share of innovations. of the Douro Valley. crisp acidity, while Bical has a richer aroma, making
In the past, the composition of a final blend was often this a delightful blend.
defined by the varieties of grapes grown in the vineyards (often Portuguese varieties can also be blended with international types.
mixed). But now, progress in winegrowing and the While the former add structure and character to a blend, the latter Dão. Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, and Jaen.
systematization of vineyards allows to estimate the quality almost always "spice up" the wines, creating notes which make These three varieties are the foundation of the
of each variety separately during the vinification process the taste more complex. Blends such as Arinto/Chardonnay, Dão red grape legacy. Touriga Nacional needs
and consciously craft a final blend, allowing the winemaker Aragonez/Cabernet Sauvignon or Touriga Nacional/Syrah no introduction, while Alfrocheiro has a rich color
to develop the art of blending in comfortable laboratory are often used in wines which are drunk young and are good and is well balanced, accentuating the milder Touriga Franca
conditions. for informal events. and more aromatic Jaen.