Page 15 - Code de Vino, #17/23, a/w 2018
P. 15

14   Space of taste                                                                    Code de Vino #17               Code de Vino #17                                    Portuguese Winemaking — Varieties, Regions, Traditions  15
                                                                                                                              Portugal is located on the Iberian Peninsula in southwestern
                                                                                                                                                                   2
                                                                                                                              Europe with an area slightly exceeding 92,000 km . A country
                                                                                                                              of stunning beauty, it offers visitors a truly unforgettable
                                                                                                                              experience. From the Algarve beaches in the south to the
                                                                                                                              picturesque mountains of Vinho Verde in the north, this is a
                                                                                                                              country of contrasts. Between them lie emerald valleys, hilly
                                                                                                                              plains and cork oak groves that provide the whole wine
                                                                                                                              world with high quality corks.

                                                                                                                              In the east of the country, the climate is dry and continental,
                                                                                                                              while the west has a milder climate and more greenery, which
                                                                                                                              is especially lush in the northeast. Today, the entire country
                                                                                                                              is interconnected by a network of new roads that serve as a sign
                                                                                                                              of the rapid development period the country experienced
                                                                                                                              in the late 1980's.
                                                                                                                              Now ancient buildings stand adjacent to large modern
                                                                                                                              construction projects, and age-old traditions co-exist with the
                                                                                                                              newest technological innovations. But still it is tradition that lies
                                                                                                                              at the very heart of Portugal. Family gatherings are frequent,
                                                                                                                              especially for dinners, in particular at Christmas. Friends
                                                                                                                              celebrate life together, go dancing, listen to fado music, and
                                                                                                                              pass the time in street cafes and traditional restaurants, which
                                                                                                                              regardless of their class, always strive to offer delicious food
                                                                                                                              and amazing local wines.
                                                                                                                              Traditional cuisine and wine are fundamental values here.
                                                                                                                              Without taking certain modern restaurants into account, visitors
                                                                                                                              can expect huge portions of local dishes, seasonal game,
                                                                                                                              an abundance of fish and seafood, the beloved Bacalhau cod,
                                                                                                                              plenty of bread, and local rice and potatoes. Dessert is a must,
                                                                                                                              and it might seem like Portugal has 1,001 combinations of yolk
                                                                                                                              and sugar.
                                                                                                                              Meals are always accompanied by wine, and always different
                                                                                                                              depending on the dish and event. They accentuate and help
                                                                                                                              open up new tastes, making each meal unforgettable.
                                                                                                                              Portuguese winemakers are only conservative about their fidelity
                                                                                                                              to grape varieties. But this comes as no surprise, asthey are
                                                                                                                              so unique and diverse.

                                                                                                                              Portugal's wine revolution
                                                                                                                              As for quality, no one here rests solely on the laurels of tradition.
                                                                                                                              Twenty-five years of investment, education and learning new
                                                                                                                              approaches has led to drastic changes in winemaking. Today,
                                                                                                                              the choice of Portuguese wines has increased considerably.
                                                                                                                              Alongside cooperatives and big companies, there are also lots
                                                                                                                              of wineries making their own wines good enough to consistently
                                                                                                                              conquer new markets. It is no surprise that Jancis Robinson,   qualified specialists with a new professional status
                                                                                                                              the enologist to the British Queen, calls Portuguese wines   on the domestic wine market.
                                                                                                                              the world's best!
        Portuguese Winemaking —                                                                                               Thanks to considerable investments and subsidies from the   Higher education institutes in Lisbon (Instituto Superior
                                                                                                                                                                                  de Agronomia, ISA) and in Lisbon and Vila Real
                                                                                                                                                                                  (Universidade de Tr s-os-Montes e Alto Douro, UTAD)
                                                                                                                              EU in the 1990's, vineyards and wineries saw an influx of funds
                                                                                                                              leading to an impressive increase in wine quality. Many private   are responsible for training this new generation of
        Varieties, Regions, Traditions                                                                                        wineries began to construct facilities to produce and bottle their   and introduce new methods and technologies across the
                                                                                                                                                                                  specialists. They have managed to change the mentality
                                                                                                                              own wine instead of just selling their grapes or wines
                                                                                                                              to cooperatives or big winemakers as before.
                                                                                                                                                                                  country, thus accelerating the modernization of traditional
                                                                                                                                                                                  and even contributing to the development of new
                                                                                                                              Over the centuries, sons would follow in their fathers' footsteps   winemaking regions. This new generation of winegrowers
                                                                                                                              and run the family wine business, thus preserving family   and winemakers considers themselves the keepers of
        Author: Vasily Prytkov                                                                                                traditions. Nowadays, new generations of winemakers are still in   a precious and unique national treasure: the rich diversity
                                                                                                                              the family business and make use of their ancestors' experience.   of autochthonous grape varieties that make Portuguese
                                                                                                                              The only difference is that these new winemakers are highly-  wines so special.
   10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18   19   20