Page 28 - Code de Vino, #12/18, s/s 2016

28 The Space of Taste
His Majesty
Pinot Noir
Authors: Olga Sgibneva, Vasily Prytkov
Pinot Noir is one of the most mysterious international grape varieties.
Along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz (Syrah), this traditional
French grape can be considered one of the most popular commercial red
grape varieties in the world. But at the same time, it really stands out.
A traditional Burgundy grape and the king of red Burgundy wines,
it combines power and sophistication, depth and lightness.
It can vary widely, just like the weather in Burgundy.
Some loyal fans of Pinot Noir believe that, despite its supposed internationality,
one cannot achieve brilliant results with it outside of Burgundy: the grape
depends on the terroir too heavily and has too many subtleties, features,
and nuances that are difficult to take into account in other conditions.
Nevertheless, Pinot Noir has become one of the most popular grape varieties
in the New World. It is also actively cultivated in Germany, Austria, Switzerland,
and even in Japan, and the famous oenologist Jancis Robinson was amazed
by the Pinot Noir Cru Lermont wine by Russia’s Fanagoria.
Code de Vino #12
Code de Vino #12 His Majesty Pinot Noir 29
Background Characteristics
Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varieties used in So what makes Pinot Noir, which now reigns supreme in
winemaking. This is an autochthonous grape from Burgundy, so special? What made the authorities liquidate
Burgundy, where winemaking has been practiced since the Gamay vines and suppress the resistance of the local
Celtic times, as early as in the sixth century BC. Famous residents?
ancient personalities such as Virgil, Pliny, and Columella
showed interest in Burgundy wines. Pinot Noir is named that way because of its tight, compact
clusters that look like cones. Its name actually translates
At the beginning of the Christian era, Burgundy as “black cone.” It has small, cylindrical, and very
winemakers cultivated the Morillon Noir variety, which is compact 7–12 cm long and 5–8 cm wide clusters. If you
considered the ancestor of Pinot Noir (some even think it’s look closely, you’ll get the feeling that the cluster wants to
just an old name of Pinot Noir). Benedictine and Cistercian form a sphere. It contracts toward the center, creating an
monks who lived in the territory of modern Burgundy unusual geometric shape with its own internal tension.
actively cultivated this variety and made wine from it. But Pinot Noir berries are round and have a thin dark blue
church documents dating back to the Middle Ages skin. Their juice is colorless.
mention Pinot Noir under its modern name.
Reflecting on the grapes most suitable for the production
Then something unusual happened: Pinot Noir received of great wines, the famous Roman agriculturist Columella
massive support from the authorities. The Burgundian gave a description of Pinot Noir that is both accurate and
dukes were among the first rulers in history to declare worthy of a modern ampelographer: “A variety
local winemaking a matter of national importance. In those distinguished by its rounded leaves. It has an advantage
days, Burgundy was mostly dominated by another famous over other grapes, as it can withstand drought and cold,
autochthonous grape, Gamay (today, it has become and it grows nicely in conditions of low humidity. In some
universally popular thanks to the successful promotion of areas, it produces wines with good storage potential, and
Beaujolais wines). In 1395, during the reign of Duke Philip even a single harvest will convince you that it is the right
II the Bold, the authorities issued a special decree choice for poor soils.”
ordering the peasants to replace their beloved Gamay
with the more noble Pinot Noir. From that moment on,
Pinot Noir does not have a high tannin or anthocyanin
Pinot Noir became the main red grape variety in
historical homeland and has become one of the most content, which poses a challenge for winemakers. And
this is where Burgundy’s terroir comes into play: the cool
Burgundy. Today, Pinot Noir has spread far beyond its
climate and predominantly calcareous soils create the
cultivated grape varieties in the world. perfect conditions for Pinot Noir. Because of its thin skin,
Pinot Noir needs a longer vegetation period to accumulate
polyphenolic and aromatic compounds, so a cool climate
suits it best.
Pinot Noir has a weak flavor, but it accumulates
precursors—substances that help form aromatic
compounds and act as their predecessors. This is also
best achieved in a cold climate. As acids also help create
aromatic compounds, this is a case where calcareous
soils are more than appropriate for a red grape.
Considering all this, it is clear why Pinot Noir is so terroir
dependent and why wines made from it reflect the
properties of the soil, climate, and the winemaker’s ability
to combine all these conditions together like no other. Or
they reflect nothing and turn out bland. It is no
coincidence that the classification of Burgundy wines is
connected with the classification of vineyards—the wine
reflects the terroir.
This is why it is also important to use organic methods of
grape cultivation and wine production, since the use of
chemical fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus) radically
changes the structure and aroma of the wine, resulting in
wines that all resemble one another. This works well for
During the reign of Duke Philip II the Bold (1363 1404), industrial winemaking, where an even result is important,
Pinot Noir received state support. but then the wines often lack individuality.