Page 13 - Code de Vino, # 16/22, s/s 2018

13 Wine Club Code de Vino #16
— I hope to God it turns out to be the first!
Areni reaches its peak in the first week of November, and
of course you can keep it on the vine right up until this date.
— What a wonderful... Not talk or interview, but rather Here, a lot of people pay cash for Areni, they’re so eager to
contemplation we have going here. Under your sun. I’d purchase it... so many vinegrowers harvest ahead of time.
like you to address a couple of words to anyone out The vegetation period here lasts 210-220 days, while in
there planning on trying Armenian wines. What do you Europe it’s only 140-150.
want to say to them?
The longer grape stays on the vine, the better it becomes
— As a winemaking country, Armenia has so much from the stress, and the more strength and potential it has.
excitement to offer. Just like our long history, some of the We harvest Areni in Khachik in the first week of October
grapes we use today — Voskehat, Khatunm, Areni — have using traditional methods. It has a pH level of 3.0. That is
been perfecting themselves for thousands of years. They very low, which is truly amazing! This way, you get more
have passed through the hands and selection process of mature phenolic acids, but you don’t have the excess
countless winemakers. Our domestic winemaking industry sugar. The balance this creates is simply ideal! We use
has deep roots and an ancient history. That is why we must this grape to make highland sparkling Keush with the
treat it like our legacy that we share with other wine lovers classic champagnization method. At higher altitudes, Areni
across the world. achieves the right qualities for sparkling wines.
The second reason for the uniqueness of Armenian wines In the Ararat Plain, harvest days can come as early as in
is its highland, volcanic soil terroir. This unique land, in my September. You can even start the process in August for
opinion, is the key to making great wine. The only thing we sparkling wine, but then the grape won’t suffer the negative
bring to it today — the young generation — is our passion, stress factors that make it stronger.
including mine and our oenologist Arman Manukyan’s, plus
the desires of countless others like us. It is our desire to use
this treasure to make something beautiful! — Right now we’re trying your wine made from
Garandmak. What region does that come from?
Our priority is creating beautiful wines. Money is far from the
end game now. We study the soil, seek out unique grapes, — Ararat Plain, the Armavir subregion. It is a white wine
travel from region to region, conduct research... if I wanted from Norapat village. In the past, there were almost 300
to make money, I would have stayed in Italy and sold Pinot ha of this variety growing there. In the Soviet period, it was
Grigio! used to make brandy, but now not very much of it is left. In
Armenian it means “fat-tailed lamb” because its bunches
But now I work with Paul Hobbs, Michel Rolland and other resemble a fatty tail.
celebrities who come here with big ideas, see Armenia at
its finest and fall in love with its winemaking and vineyards.
We collaborate closely with farmers, villages, and the local — What a body it has! And it tastes so fresh for a 2014
authorities. wine. Is it on the market?

— No, we’re working on that right now. At the moment, you
— It is fascinating that since you have volcanic can’t find Garandmak wine anywhere.
soil here, the local three-year grape is more like a
five-year-old in Bordeaux. Volcanic soil speeds up
mineralization. — So in a way, you’re pioneers.

— Right, there are two factors making the terroir of Armenia — Yes. But you show them a bottle of Garandmak, and
unique. First, it’s the soil and its volcanic rocks (tuff, basalt). next year it’s already a sensation. Everyone will start making
This land is simply amazing! The second thing you need to it. The same thing happened to Voskehat. Back then, no
keep in mind is that Armenia is located at the same latitude one made wine from Voskehat. It was instead distilled and
as Southern Sicily, Pantelleria Island. But here we are at used for vodka. Now the price has shot up along with its
least 1,100 meters above sea level, while in Italy the highest popularity.
point for a vineyard anywhere is 750 meters. That’s the
maximum! And their red wine more resembles a rose.
In Armenia, we’re anywhere from 1,100 to 1,500 meters — Does that mean you’re leading all of Armenia behind
above sea level (and as high as 1,800 meters in Vayots you under one banner?
Dzor, Khachik village). That’s why we can stay ahead
of Pantelleria, Burgundy, and Bordeaux, because the — Winewise, that might be true. Right now we’re
vegetation period here is much longer. considered “opinion makers.” When we just started, no