Page 11 - Code de Vino, # 16/22, s/s 2018
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11    Wine Club                                                                          Code de Vino #16
        because you started learning about wine! Then you     Askeran — but that’s a question for another time. Still, they
        dabbled in wine sales and arrived at the source: the   will only be subregions.
        need to make wine yourself. That’s a real presidential
        race if I’ve ever seen it!                            — How can you comment on the issue of young and
                                                              old vineyards in Armenia?
        — Yes, I have had a good career...
                                                              — Old vineyards mostly belong to the Soviet era from the
                                                              1960-70s. There are some very ancient spots, but they’re
        — Now I want to talk a bit more about Armenian        few in number. There is hardly any phylloxera is Armenia,
        wines. I think I have the general picture all worked out.   so several very old vineyards have managed to survive as
        However, can you give me a recommendation of the      well.
        best wine in each wine region of Armenia from your
        perspective?                                          — But in order to obtain good wine, vines must be at
                                                              least 15-20 years old.
        — That is tough, because Armenia doesn’t have that
        many regions, but each has so many good winemakers!   — That is true in general, but as concerns commercial
        In Karabakh, I would have to say Anush Kataro (especially   production, you can have a quality vine in just 8 years. If
        their Khndokhni). In Armavir, I’d say Karas Wines, and   you cultivate vines without irrigation, you can likely reach
        even though they use international grape varieties, they do   a very high quality level in about 20-30 years. But this
        it better than anyone else. In Aragatsotn Province, I can   happens extremely rarely.
        highlight ArmAs, Van Ardi as a boutique producer, and
        Armenia Wine with their red Tariri as a large winery. There is
        a lot going on in the wine world there. Then Voskevaz with   — If there are a lot of vineyards, the old ones must be
        their Karasi Collection, or wines made in amphorae.   preserved.
        In Vayots Dzor, I can definitely emphasize the Areni grape.   — Sure, that’s exactly what we’re after. The problem is that
        They have great producers there, like Zorah Wines,    old vineyards do not produce a lot of grape. Until recently,
        Yacoubian-Hobbs, and Koor. In Areni, I’d like to single out   winemakers got the same price for any grape of any age.
        Hin Areni.                                            Perhaps, Arman Winery could ask for more because
                                                              they are good judges of vine age. But still, the majority of
        As concerns the Ararat region, I won’t say much. It’s too   producers are not interested in these nuances. Today the
        hot there. The region is mostly used for cognac grape. But   situation is changing, because we go to the producers and
        perhaps I misunderstood you... are you asking about the   say: if you give us the best Areni, we’ll pay 30-40% more.
        bigger wineries?                                      We collaborate with a number of major producers like
                                                              Yacoubian-Hobbs and Koor, so where others pay 2 dollars,
                                                              we can offer 5, 10, even 15...
        — I mostly mean quality.

        — I can also mention Idjevan, a large producer in the city   — All the wines produced with your support are made
        of Idjevan (center of Tavush Province, northern Armenia).   with grapes of a decent age.
        They have the potential for white wines and, dare I say,
        elegant red wines. But the climate there is complicated. It   — But this also indicates the fact that the full potential has
        is quite humid, so they can’t acquire the sugar or alcohol   not yet been reached. Yes, the vineyards are old, but they
        content like in the valley.                           sometimes lack the proper care. I’m sure they will only get
                                                              better over time, as the quality of grape continues to grow.

        — Can you think of any other regions?
                                                              — I rated some Karas Wines as 94-96 out of 100. Their
        — The Meghri subregion (Meghri district) in Syunik    wine truly does have a very high quality.
        Province, the southernmost part of Armenia on the border
        with Iran. They have a totally different climate where   — Karas Wines have famous international varieties and
        anything can grow. They used to make a noteworthy     a very good area for winemaking. Their quality and
        white dessert Arevik wine, but not anymore. They have   winemaking process are quite complex.
        the potential, they have autochthonous grapes and old
        wineries, but no one is brave enough to start a business
        there. I think that’s what I might do next.           — I gave your Koor wines 93 out of 100, and 94 out of
                                                              100 to Kataro.
        As for the regions, this is it. In the future, something more
        might crop up in Karabakh’s regions — Martuni, Gadrut,   — You’re right, I agree with that assessment. We know
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