Page 14 - Code de Vino, #4/09, a/w 2009
P. 14
12 Wine club Code de Vino #4 Code de Vino #4 A Talk with Marchese Piero Antinori 13
I would also like to say that every wine has its own story, — What does your restaurant in Moscow mean to you? Is it — You often talk about four rules for choosing good wine,
or rather individual evolutionary process, and we follow every just a business, or something larger? and how they relate to everyone. Thus, you demonstrate
aspect of it closely. This means that every wine reflects the the enormous space occupied by wine, creating an
properties of the place where the grape grown to produce — Many years ago, we opened our first restaurant in Florence. analogy to the work of another famous Florentine,
it was located. The idea was to promote wine; we wanted to offer high quality Leonardo da Vinci. Do you feel any connection to him?
wine to our guests, explain about aspects of wine consumption,
When harvesting, if we notice that the same vineyard produces and teach them how to combine wine and cuisine. All in all, — Leonardo da Vinci was a genius, we can all agree on that.
grapes of different quality over the course of 2 consequent we wanted to give the best representation we could of wine Even in his drawings he managed to combine two things that
years, we don't combine them, but rather collect and store as a drink. to some people may seems like complete opposites.
them separately. We treat every vineyard individually. The first one is geometry, accuracy and expertize,
In Moscow, we had the exact same goal — to promote wine while the other one is great poetry, emotions and artistry.
in the Russian market and educate people about it. We wanted And I believe it's also important to learn to combine these
— How would you define your company's philosophy? people to try real quality wine, and tell them about how it could two elements in wine.
be combined with food. We decided that people in Moscow
— There is a theory, which I have been trying to follow my would be eager to acquire this knowledge, and that it could Wine must be produced according to a well tuned scheme.
entire life. My father gave me the basics of it, and I pass the become a part of the industry's evolution. I would even say that I personally think that in winemaking, it is incredibly important
experience on down to my daughters. I think that in order it is a part of a quality life. to stick to strict rules, and be very careful and attentive to
to be a good winemaker, one must first of all love the process details. At the same time, one must make wine like poetry...
of producing wine. Obviously, the right technology is also Great wine must inspire great feelings! A great wine to me
important, but you can always hire a good enologist with — I heard that in your everyday life your needs are very is when you taste it and fall in love immediately, because
experience for that. humble. But moderation is known only to those who live it offers you so many amazing feelings. It needs
in complete harmony. Do you think that the wine you make to be artistic and wonderful, this is a must.
For a family like us, passion is our main philosophy. And also helps people reach harmony, the harmony of taste
patience, as one has to be patient if they want to produce good and living? On the whole, I might say that wine ought to be a pure
wine. Today, for instance, you might grow a vine and get product that at the same time inspires you to experience
a good harvest, but later that might mean waiting for years — Quality wine is a harmonious combination of numerous amazing feelings, like when admiring a sublime painting
and being very patient. One year the grape isn't good enough, elements: it's the aroma, structure and body of the wine and or listening to a majestic concert.
then the next year too... So you have to wait until it shines its acidity. I believe that balanced wine can impart a portion
and you can get the right product. of its characteristics to the person drinking and enjoying it.
I see many inexperienced winemakers who don't know the
traditions of quality winemaking, are in a constant hurry and — The following question might seem a bit inappropriate,
always yearning for the best result in the shortest possible time. but I think it's important to better understand Antinori wines.
But being persistent is important, as I said, because there will Do you believe that the falling out between you and your
be moments when you feel desperate and almost give up, brother was the force behind the appearance of the three
when maybe two years in a row aren't that good, or a wine great wines — Solaia, Sassicaia and Tignanello? Can a quarrel
you were very enthusiastic about turns out to be not so great. reflect badly on a relationship, but positively on a wine?
Family tree,
I always followed the model of my father and my family. a symbol of centuries old history Antinori — (Laughs)... Well, if we talk seriously, it's wrong to say we
My father lived through two world wars and saw many ever had any conflicts. We see each other all the time and get
of his colleagues leave this industry due to various hardships, along just fine. But we did have a split in the business, because
as once the war was over everything was in ruins and people Ludovico decided to follow his own path and reached
had to start all over again. But he was stubborn and persistent, High quality wine is supposed incredible success.
he never gave up. I also think that today it's still important to grant a direct sensory
to keep fighting, and never give up in this industry. satisfaction to a person, To prove to you that there is no bad blood between us,
the joy of taste. But intellectual I can say that not long ago Ludovico started a new project that
satisfaction is important as well. we're working together on as partners. Obviously, it's his "child"
— When you see the dramatic changes in winemaking, That is why wine consumers must above all else, but I do my best to help him.
do you think the culture of wine consumption should educate themselves about wine.
also develop parallel to that of producing it? Knowledge is an important factor But at the same time I can also say that there is a bit of truth
for wine to bring you satisfaction. to your words. When we separated and he chose his own path,
— This is exactly what happened in Italy, where just 40—50 And the magazines educating we did have a rivalry of some sorts.
years ago people focused more on the quantitative values people and telling them not just
of wine and its price. Now, after this "revolution" or, as I call it, about the properties of different In fact, I think that in this area, just like in any other, improving
renaissance, and not only in Italy but all over the world, people wine, but also about the vast quality and creating something new has a special significance.
have started to pay more and more attention to the quality world behind the bottle Sometimes it's important to be stimulated to grow through
of wine. of an excellent wine, play competition, and sometimes through losses.
an extremely valuable part.
And I think that these days wine really is better than it was Stories about winemakers, Even now, when my brother and I are partners in his project,
a century ago. We know more about the process of wine wine regions and their traditions he's trying to produce wine that will best my Antinori wine.
production now, and the technology has advanced. help people experience wine And my colleagues and my daughters say: "No, no, we can
That's why I'm sure that with access to wine of a higher to its fullest extent, and turn the make an even better wine!" I think that this sort of competition
quality, people have become more cultured and learned process into not just a sensual, is healthy and beneficial for everyone. It brings about some
to appreciate this quality. but also an intellectual pleasure. very positive results.