Page 13 - Code de Vino, #4/09, a/w 2009
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12   Wine club                                                                          Code de Vino #4               Code de Vino #4                                                     A Talk with Marchese Piero Antinori  13
        I would also like to say that every wine has its own story,                                                           — What does your restaurant in Moscow mean to you? Is it   — You often talk about four rules for choosing good wine,
        or rather individual evolutionary process, and we follow every                                                        just a business, or something larger?               and how they relate to everyone. Thus, you demonstrate
        aspect of it closely. This means that every wine reflects the                                                                                                             the enormous space occupied by wine, creating an
        properties of the place where the grape grown to produce                                                              — Many years ago, we opened our first restaurant in Florence.   analogy to the work of another famous Florentine,
        it was located.                                                                                                       The idea was to promote wine; we wanted to offer high quality   Leonardo da Vinci. Do you feel any connection to him?
                                                                                                                              wine to our guests, explain about aspects of wine consumption,
        When harvesting, if we notice that the same vineyard produces                                                         and teach them how to combine wine and cuisine. All in all,   — Leonardo da Vinci was a genius, we can all agree on that.
        grapes of different quality over the course of 2 consequent                                                           we wanted to give the best representation we could of wine   Even in his drawings he managed to combine two things that
        years, we don't combine them, but rather collect and store                                                            as a drink.                                         to some people may seems like complete opposites.
        them separately. We treat every vineyard individually.                                                                                                                    The first one is geometry, accuracy and expertize,
                                                                                                                              In Moscow, we had the exact same goal — to promote wine   while the other one is great poetry, emotions and artistry.
                                                                                                                              in the Russian market and educate people about it. We wanted   And I believe it's also important to learn to combine these
        — How would you define your company's philosophy?                                                                     people to try real quality wine, and tell them about how it could   two elements in wine.
                                                                                                                              be combined with food. We decided that people in Moscow
        — There is a theory, which I have been trying to follow my                                                            would be eager to acquire this knowledge, and that it could   Wine must be produced according to a well tuned scheme.
        entire life. My father gave me the basics of it, and I pass the                                                       become a part of the industry's evolution. I would even say that   I personally think that in winemaking, it is incredibly important
        experience on down to my daughters. I think that in order                                                             it is a part of a quality life.                     to stick to strict rules, and be very careful and attentive to
        to be a good winemaker, one must first of all love the process                                                                                                            details. At the same time, one must make wine like poetry...
        of producing wine. Obviously, the right technology is also                                                                                                                Great wine must inspire great feelings! A great wine to me
        important, but you can always hire a good enologist with                                                              — I heard that in your everyday life your needs are very   is when you taste it and fall in love immediately, because
        experience for that.                                                                                                  humble. But moderation is known only to those who live   it offers you so many amazing feelings. It needs
                                                                                                                              in complete harmony. Do you think that the wine you make   to be artistic and wonderful, this is a must.
        For a family like us, passion is our main philosophy. And also                                                        helps people reach harmony, the harmony of taste
        patience, as one has to be patient if they want to produce good                                                       and living?                                         On the whole, I might say that wine ought to be a pure
        wine. Today, for instance, you might grow a vine and get                                                                                                                  product that at the same time inspires you to experience
        a good harvest, but later that might mean waiting for years                                                           — Quality wine is a harmonious combination of numerous   amazing feelings, like when admiring a sublime painting
        and being very patient. One year the grape isn't good enough,                                                         elements: it's the aroma, structure and body of the wine and   or listening to a majestic concert.
        then the next year too... So you have to wait until it shines                                                         its acidity. I believe that balanced wine can impart a portion
        and you can get the right product.                                                                                    of its characteristics to the person drinking and enjoying it.
        I see many inexperienced winemakers who don't know the
        traditions of quality winemaking, are in a constant hurry and                                                         — The following question might seem a bit inappropriate,
        always yearning for the best result in the shortest possible time.                                                    but I think it's important to better understand Antinori wines.
        But being persistent is important, as I said, because there will                                                      Do you believe that the falling out between you and your
        be moments when you feel desperate and almost give up,                                                                brother was the force behind the appearance of the three
        when maybe two years in a row aren't that good, or a wine                                                             great wines — Solaia, Sassicaia and Tignanello? Can a quarrel
        you were very enthusiastic about turns out to be not so great.                                                        reflect badly on a relationship, but positively on a wine?
                                                                                                 Family tree,
        I always followed the model of my father and my family.        a symbol of centuries old history Antinori             — (Laughs)... Well, if we talk seriously, it's wrong to say we
        My father lived through two world wars and saw many                                                                   ever had any conflicts. We see each other all the time and get
        of his colleagues leave this industry due to various hardships,                                                       along just fine. But we did have a split in the business, because
        as once the war was over everything was in ruins and people                                                           Ludovico decided to follow his own path and reached
        had to start all over again. But he was stubborn and persistent,   High quality wine is supposed                      incredible success.
        he never gave up. I also think that today it's still important   to grant a direct sensory
        to keep fighting, and never give up in this industry.  satisfaction to a person,                                      To prove to you that there is no bad blood between us,
                                                             the joy of taste. But intellectual                               I can say that not long ago Ludovico started a new project that
                                                             satisfaction is important as well.                               we're working together on as partners. Obviously, it's his "child"
        — When you see the dramatic changes in winemaking,   That is why wine consumers must                                  above all else, but I do my best to help him.
        do you think the culture of wine consumption should   educate themselves about wine.
        also develop parallel to that of producing it?       Knowledge is an important factor                                 But at the same time I can also say that there is a bit of truth
                                                             for wine to bring you satisfaction.                              to your words. When we separated and he chose his own path,
        — This is exactly what happened in Italy, where just 40—50   And the magazines educating                              we did have a rivalry of some sorts.
        years ago people focused more on the quantitative values   people and telling them not just
        of wine and its price. Now, after this "revolution" or, as I call it,   about the properties of different             In fact, I think that in this area, just like in any other, improving
        renaissance, and not only in Italy but all over the world, people   wine, but also about the vast                     quality and creating something new has a special significance.
        have started to pay more and more attention to the quality   world behind the bottle                                  Sometimes it's important to be stimulated to grow through
        of wine.                                             of an excellent wine, play                                       competition, and sometimes through losses.
                                                             an extremely valuable part.
        And I think that these days wine really is better than it was   Stories about winemakers,                             Even now, when my brother and I are partners in his project,
        a century ago. We know more about the process of wine   wine regions and their traditions                             he's trying to produce wine that will best my Antinori wine.
        production now, and the technology has advanced.     help people experience wine                                      And my colleagues and my daughters say: "No, no, we can
        That's why I'm sure that with access to wine of a higher   to its fullest extent, and turn the                        make an even better wine!" I think that this sort of competition
        quality, people have become more cultured and learned   process into not just a sensual,                              is healthy and beneficial for everyone. It brings about some
        to appreciate this quality.                          but also an intellectual pleasure.                               very positive results.
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