Page 18 - Code de Vino, #13/19, a/w 2016

16 The Space of Taste. Top Selection of Georgian Signature Wines Code de Vino #13 Code de Vino #13 Georgian Wine Space 17
Regions Tradition Kakheti
The very nature of Georgia favors grapes, wine, and vineyards. Here is a tradition common to Georgian winemaking that has Kakheti is likely the most famous Georgian wine region
The country is located in the central and western parts of the not changed for centuries: grapes are harvested from September in the world. This place is home to the greatest number
southern Caucasus, with almost 2/3 of its territory covered to November. The harvest would start in dry weather after the dew of superagers on Earth. Kakheti is located in the
in mountains, including the 1/3 in the north — the Greater had dried up. The bunches would be plucked off by hand, or, more eastern foothills of the Caucasus, in the upper reaches
Caucasus. Cold air masses descend from the Caucasus rarely, cut off with a knife, placed in wicker baskets, and transferred of the Alazani River with its famous Alazani Valley
Mountains to Georgia, while western breezes from the Black Sea to the marani, that is "winery." There the harvested grapes would and the Iori River. Kakheti has about two-thirds
carry moisture from the subtropics, and from the south comes be placed in satsnakheli, wooden vessels, and men would press of all vineyards in Georgia. The main varieties
a front of hot continental air. There are all kinds of soils here: the juice with their feet. It would flow down the chute into large clay grown here are red Saperavi and white Rkatsiteli.
red, yellow, black, etc. As a result, many plots with different terroirs jugs with a capacity of 5 to 800 decaliters, buried in the ground,
came to be, including a number of unique microzones where grape called qvevri idi churi. The inside of the jugs would be waxed to Special features of the Kakhetian technology: whereas
varieties yielding fine wines that cannot be found anywhere else make it less porous. the European tradition says the freshly squeezed grape
grow. Such diversity of climate and terroir led to a similar diversity juice should be separated from seeds and stems,
of grape cultivation methods. The bulk of traditional Georgian wine is made in qvevris. the Kakhetian technology dictates that the grapes
The difference between the regional traditions boils down be crushed together with stems and seeds. The entire
These days, Georgia is traditionally divided into the Central, to the technology-related details: the aging time or the way must is then poured into qvevris and stays like that
Eastern, and Western regions where the main wine-producing of handling the must. The essence of the Georgian qvevri for 3 to 4 months.
areas, or zones, are identified. method is as follows.
White wines are the pride of Kakhetian winemaking.
Wine regions of Georgia In cool maranis (wine cellars), buried in the ground to the neck, White grapes are also pressed together with stems
qvevris sit, holding the mixture of freshly pressed juice and must. in satsnakhelis, and the resulting must is then placed
With active fermentation going on, carbon dioxide escapes in qvevris. The sediment containing skins, stems, seeds,
• Kakheti (the Law of Georgia "On Vines and Wines" designates the grape mixture, and a dense head of must rises up to pulp, and yeast is pressed for better must extraction.
14 microzones in the region of Eastern Georgia, producing wines the qvevri neck. It should be broken up in time to prevent the
of controlled names of origin: Akhasheni, Vazisubani, Gurdzhaani, development of acetic bacteria. Once all the gas has come out, Kakhetian wines are customarily drunk new, under
Kardenakhi, Kakheti, Kvareli, Kindzmarauli, Kotekhi, Manavi, the fermentation stops, all the sugar is completely fermented, a year of age, but best batches may be left in qvevris
Mukuzani, Napareuli, Teliani, Tibaani, Tsinandali); and the head sinks to the bottom. The vessels are then topped for years. Kakhetian wines are characterized by
• Kartli (Ateni microzone); up, sealed with a wooden lid, which is covered with damp clay a pronounced varietal aroma and structure; they
• Imereti (Sviri microzone); to protect the wine from air penetration, and left until spring. have the hue of dark amber or tea (white) and dark
• Racha-Lechkhumi (Khwanchkara and Tvishi microzones); pomegranate (red), a high alcohol content (11-13%)
3
• Black Sea coastal zone (Adjara, Guria, Megrelia). and body (over 20 g/dm ), moderate acidity (4.0-5.5
3
g/dm ), and a high content of phenolic and dyeing Alaverdi, Kakheti
3
substances (2.0-3.5 g/dm ).
Kartli
East Georgia occupies an extensive
part of the Kura and Mtkvari basins
and covers the Gori Plain (750 m
above sea level) and the Mukhrani Plain
(560–600 m above sea level). Byzantine
and other ancient sources refer to Kartli
as Iberia, with its center in Mtskheta.
The climate is temperate and warm,
with dry, hot summers. The precipitation
rates are low. Vineyard irrigation
is required. The region produces classic
table wines and wine materials for grape
brandy and sparkling wines, such
as Goruli Mtswane and Chinuri.
At present, viticulture and winemaking
in Upper Kartli and Meskheti are not
industrial-scale, but they are deeply
rooted in history. The famous Vardzia,
a cave town cut into a rock, is found
here; it had maranis, qvevris,
and stone crushers (satsnakhelis).

Southern slopes of the Mukhrani Valley,
Tskhinvali, and many other microdistricts
produce unique wine materials that
go into sparkling wines. Sparkling wine
is produced here mainly by the so-called
The ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe continuous method.