Page 14 - Code de Vino, #3/10, s/a 2009
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64 Энотека Code de Vino #3
14 Wine Critic Code de Vino #3
— Monsieur Quarin, in your job you taste a lot of visited a chateau... their glasses were crystal clear, but I
different wines. How many of them would you say are could still catch some other smells.
of a truly high quality? — What would you say is your favorite type of wine?
— About 60% of what I try doesn’t deserve its place in a — Cabernet Sauvignon.
tasting session.
— Out of all the wines out there containing Cabernet
— That’s a tough pill to swallow. Sauvignon, what percent of that is quality wine?
— Yes, it’s far from easy (laughs). It’s true though. Half of What do you see more of — good or bad Cabernet
these wines are simply not good, while the other half are Sauvignon?
nothing special. What’s left over in the end between them is — Second-rate Cabernet Sauvignon is more common.
what’s truly worth drinking. You know, it’s a tricky situation,
it’s so hard to choose a worthy wine. — In your opinion, where does this grape reveal its
best qualities?
At this point in our conversation, the waiter comes over to — First of all, it’s at its peak when grown in gravel soil.
serve us the wine Mr. Quarin has selected. Before allowing Cabernet Sauvignon ripens perfectly in warm, pebbly soil,
him to pour the wine, the archaeologist smells his empty or in the hills. This type of soil provides excellent drainage.
glass. This is what secured its reputation as a great wine—
when it’s ripe, it’s not watery. It acquires the aroma of
— Why did you just smell your empty glass? blackcurrants and a cold fireplace.
— I always check the glass first. It’s a professional habit.
Glasses often tend to absorb the smells of the restaurant. — What about Cabernet Sauvignon from regions other
To eliminate all foreign smells, glasses must always be than Medoc, its native area?
washed thoroughly with water. For instance, yesterday I — I think that only the taste of grapes cultivated in Medoc