Page 10 - Code de Vino, #3/10, s/a 2009
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Code de Vino #3
              Винный клуб
        10 10  Code de Vino Wine Club                                                            Code de Vino #3               Code de Vino #3                                                      Беседа с Янисом Каракезидисом  11
 10  Винный клуб                             Code de Vino #3               Code de Vino #3                                                         Беседа с Янисом Каракезидисом   11
                                                              — Yanis, please, let’s taste your wine before it starts
                                                              warming up.
                                                              — Let it unfold, don’t be impatient (Yanis pours me a glass).
                                                              I called my wine Stretto because it reminds me of the
                                                              quintessence of a musical piece. It’s like a powerful harmonious
                                                              accord, the grand finale.

                                                              — It’s amazing (about the wine, after tasting). It’s leaving
                                                              a backwards aftertaste. Incredible! Only now did the wine
                                                              start working.
                                                              — You’ll wake up with a berry taste in your mouth. It’s a very
                                                              dynamic wine, it will keep surprising you... People often ask
                                                              me: “How do you get this effect in your wine? You play the
                                                              flute, right? Or something else is going on there...” I used
                                                              to brush it off, but recently I’ve started to think it over more:
                                                              something indeed must be happening. On the one hand, it’s
                                                              constant unpredictability and worries, because it’s kind of like
                                                              praying, like a mother praying for her child. Some effect indeed
                                                              does take place... Faith is important, nothing works without it.

                                                              — You remind me of Robert Mondavi, the renowned
                                                              American winemaker who brought America’s wine
                                                              production to a game-changing level, but did so by
                                                              expressing his attitude towards wine, without which
                                                              understanding and unfurling true wine is impossible. I
                                                              mean, it is one thing to make wine, but learning to express
                                                              it is an entirely different story.
                                                              — Right, a person must age together with wine! The ageing of
                                                              wine is a life-like process! So it is only fair. If I had more time
                                                              to position myself better, I would have probably achieved a lot
                                                              more. But the idea is most important, and the money comes
                                                              later. Maybe the money actually never comes, it doesn’t really
                                                              matter... You’ll always have some money if you’re skilled, but
                                                              what is it all worth without an idea? Without one, can a person
                                                              just keep drowning himself in existence? Do you see how this                                                             Янис – философ, музыкант, винодел
        I might take a part of my own grape from the Sukko Vallery, or   happens? Wealth is also a concept invented for the majority of
        I might sample them from some other place. I can even source   people to give them motivation. For example, you understand   Янис – философ, музыкант, винодел
        from Rayevskaya village, where there’s a small plot about half   that money is not a global philosophy, and I do too. But...
        an hectare in size, it’s all so fascinating...

        — So it’s the experience of it, the pure alchemy that
        attracts you most in this process?
        — To a certain extent, yes. I can’t say in these moments of
        insight that I follow any particular technological methods.
        Rather, there is a certain period of time over which we,
        sometimes several generations of people, sharpen the process.
        And it always rewards us in turn with pleasant gifts.
        You see, in my opinion it is the barrel that defines the wine.
        I think that fermentation is best performed naturally, through
        staves. The wine must breathe, that is, we must allow
        microoxidation. We replace quick filtering with ageing wine in
        barrels of Caucasian oak, which is no less superior in quality to
        French oak.
        Another interesting moment is that I use my own natural
        carbon dioxide, not factory-made. When we’re crushing
        grapes, the pomace, using traditional technology, I pump the
        carbon dioxide directly in, leaving no time for unwanted active
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