Page 13 - Code de Vino, #13/19, a/w 2016
P. 13

10  Wine Club  Code de Vino #13  Code de Vino #13                    Bidzina Ivanishvili: Living by Law of Grapevine  11
 — How do you feel about the idea that genuine Georgian
 wine is food?
 — Listen, I have a college friend, a little odd, but a very good man.
 He only subsists on wine. He's over 60 now, just like me. He lives
 alone in Kakheti; he likes it there. He makes wine and, and he'll
 often live two or three days on red wine only. He won't eat anything
 else. He drinks five or six bottles a day, but you'll never see him
 inebriated. And he's in a good mood all the time, too. Again,
 he only drinks wine, consuming it like food! That's the first time
 I've ever seen anyone do so. It's all about the state of our brains,
 our minds. Since we're human, we should be able to think.
 Otherwise, we will only be developing the animalistic traits
 in ourselves. Everyone wants to be stronger, better than others.
 That means a person must be different in some way: either
 in power or in intelligence. But the most important thing
 is self-improvement, and only then should a person tackle how
 to be better than others and stand out in the crowd.


 — There has to be a culture of consumption
 for any drink, right?
 — Well, the essence of celebrating a Georgian feast is not simply
 drinking wine! Not the dry fact of consuming wine. Alcohol doesn't
 actually play any major role here.

 — This doesn't even sound like drinking, more like savoring.

 — Absolutely. Savoring is a good word for this.                                     Ananuri Fortress, Georgia

 — The wine made in Georgia, and I'm talking about real wine   — You know the story of Dionysus, right? He was murdered
 here that cannot be compared to any other in the world.   and torn apart. And you know why? He wouldn't tell anyone   — At the same time, I get upset seeing the prices   — Georgians are so open and hospitable that one is brought
 It's natural, of supreme quality. The body just absorbs it...   where his cellar was. And his cellar, in fact, was the whole   of Georgian wine in Russian stores. Imagine how much   to respect this kind of hospitality here.
 No one else in the world can make such wine! Everyone   of Georgia. He hid all his knowledge about wine, all his   a company like Badagoni has to make. And they are,
 else makes it the same way.  achievements—grapes and wines—in Georgia.  in my opinion, the face of Georgia. That is, if we talk quality   — The boat... remember when I told you about the boat? Everything's
          wines from large-scale makers to prove the obvious.  in it: they never left — they were waiting for guests to come all the time.
 — Winemaking has become a matter of snobbery in many   — That's an interesting legend. Georgia also lay disfigured for   They were waiting here. Try telling that to the French or the English —
 countries. Now here, every peasant learns how to make wine   a while. However, the peasants stuck to their ways; they never   — Georgia is a land of the process. You could even say it's   they get offended. They claim they're just as hospitable as the others.
 as a child already. Still, they're good at technology abroad.   changed themselves. And there are so many things to be found   a way of living. The consumption of wine is a process,   Of course, every nation is to a certain extent. But I wanted to highlight the
 They clean their product well; they're good salesmen, diligent   in Georgia these days thanks to that. Consider the western region   too, and the wine's in trouble where it's not understood.  peculiarities of Georgians, and so I told you about the boat. Here's
 workers. But all that is good for aged wines. For us, the prime   where Odzhaleshi grapes grow. A wealth of different flavors comes   a memory I've borne since when I was a kid: a man can be working,
 strength lies in young wines.  out of it. That's extremely interesting!  but the instant a guest comes in, he quits everything. The most important
          — Yes, it's a way of living. Georgia has preserved   things will be set aside to welcome a guest. Even in places that did not
 I'm not going to say I know a lot about technology. I know as much   its culture, and I would like to stress it's genuine culture.   have wine... such regions would also begin planting vineyards!
 about winemaking as my grandfather did when I used to help him.   — Or else, the Otskhanuri Sapere wine. I tried it at a vineyard   These days, many people talk about culture and   See, where I was born, it's a very difficult place for grapes to grow.
 Since my very childhood, like every Georgian, at the age of three   that's a whopping 50 years old. There's no equal   traditions, but shouldn't they manifest themselves
 or four, I was already trying to climb into the trough where the   to it anywhere!  through everyday life and ooze out of everyone's pores,
 grapes were pressed. It all captivated me even as a little boy.   instead of just being declared as existing? When you   — I remembered being told that you'd revived 52 grape varietals.
 That's why I am no different from any other Georgian   — Much depends on the age of the vine, as the older it is,   come to Georgia, talk about getting into a mystery. Let's
 in understanding the technology of how to make wine:   the better it is crystallized.  get back to Dionysus for a while. It was an interesting   — I believe I've created a very righteous place there. Now, where I was
 everyone knows as much as I do.   notion. The idea of Dionysus' mystery is that a person   born and where my parents lived, that was no place to grow grapes.
          should be living eternally in a state of experiencing wine,   800 meters above sea level, and as low as 20 degrees below zero
 I tried many French, Italian, Chilean, Argentinean wines...   — Exactly, as the vine absorbs minerals out of the soil.   just what we can see in a Georgian feast today.   in winter. Still, people would plant grapes! A Georgian simply can't help
 You mentioned them, too. Well, yes, the Kakhetian,   And if the wine is properly aged in a qvevri, it retains them   The state of people filling up, absorbing it...  but grow grapes. And he can't help but make his own wine. Otherwise,
 or East Georgian, technology is well-known, but it differs   in full. That's what you should drink! All of Georgia is the   what will he do when guests stop by?
 a lot from that in the West.  Golden Fleece! But here I want to tell you one thing,   — Here it would also be apt to bring up the songs:
 if somewhat unpleasant: Georgian wines will never be   Georgian folk songs, the polyphony. It's all connected,   When a guest comes, a Georgian is obligated to put wine on the table!
 allowed on the western market.  isn't it? And Georgian poetry, too. I speak several languages,   And where's a peasant to get it? He is thus obligated to grow grapes
 — There's one important thing here: it's all about the root   and I'm adamant that untranslated Georgian poetry can   and make wine. It took a lot of work, and the peasant life was already
 of the grapevine.  — That I know well. I agree it's wrong. It's a business, and that's   be compared to that of any prominent country... Even with   toilsome enough. They would plant corn and wheat, but 90 percent
 where we're different. For us, wine is a celebration. When a feast   the poetry of Russia, with Pushkin, Lermontov, and other   of the effort was spent on vineyards. And they didn't even produce any
 — Correct! It's like teaching kids how to cook from an early age.   lasts three hours, you're at the peak of your life's meaning for all   greats. A person under the influence of this image wants   yields worth talking about. They just weren't worth it! Still, the peasants
 Same thing about wine: everyone grows up in the middle of the   of those three hours. And the meaning of life is life itself. That's   to sing, wants to deliver a flowery speech. Georgian poetry   had no other way. They had no money to buy ripe grapes grown
 process of making wine, and everyone can do it. Still, everybody   where the value and joy of life are best expressed. That's why   is very rich. And dancing isn't a coincidence either, I believe.   somewhere like in Kakheti. But they would make wine anyway —
 does it differently. Case in point: my uncle never could produce   I think it's the zenith, the best discovery of human civilization.   All these things are interwoven and connected to wine   there simply was no other option left for them. You've got a guest coming
 wine as good as my father's.   As trivial as it may sound... let everybody come here for our wine!  for some reason.  over, and you don't have any wine? You're as good as done for!
   8   9   10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18